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En route to or from Phu Cat you pass Dong Ba Market, the epicenter of Hue commercial life, a rambling covered market at the southeast corner of the citadel. Fruit, fish and vegetable vendors overflow into the surrounding spaces, while in the downstairs hall you’ll find Hue’s contribution to the world of fashion, the non bai tho or poem hat. These look just like the normal conical hat but have a stencil, traditionally of a romantic poem. Inserted between the palm fronds – and only visible when help up to the light. The market is within walking distance of the centre, but a more enjoyable way to get is to hop on one of the sampans that shuttle back and forth from beside the Dap Da causeway.