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Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Si Pan lies less than 5km as the crow flies from Sa Pa, but it’s an arduous three to five day round trip on foot. Than usual route starts by descending 300m to cross the Muong Hoa River, and then climbs almost 2000m on overgrown paths through pine forest and bamboo thickets, before emerging on the southern ridge. The reward is a panorama encompassing the mountain ranges of northwest Vietnam, south to Son La province and north to the peaks of Yunnan in China. Although it’s a hard climb, the most difficult aspect of Pan Si Pan is its climate: even in the most favorable months of November and December it’s difficult to predict a stretch of settled clear weather and many people are forced back by cloud, rain and cold. A guide is essential to trace indistinct paths, hack through bamboo and locate water source; Hmong guides are said to know the mountain best. Sapa hotels and tour agents can arrange guides and porters as repaired.