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East of the mosque, the city’s largest covered market, Dong Xuan, occupies a whole block behind its original, 1889 façade. Its three storeys are dedicated to clothes and household goods, while fresh foodstuffs spill out into a bustling street market stacked with multicolored, sounds of vegetables. Head one block east again and you find two ramps taking bicycles and pedestrians up onto Long Bien Bridge, a road and rail bridge of Indochina, Paul Doumer. Until Chuong Duong Bridge was built in the 1980, Long Bien was the Red River’s only bridge and therefore of immense strategic significance. During the American War this was one of Vietnam’s most heavily defended sports, which American bombs never managed to knock out completely. If you have time, take a bicycle ride across the 1700-metre span of iron lattice-work, but spare a thought for the maintenance staff: in the 1960s, perhaps the last time is was done, it took a hundred workers five years to repaint the bridge.